Contact Information:


Marc Goldblatt

Info@Classic-Technologies.com

(203) 461-0463 (Eastern Time Zone)

Norwalk CT

Fuse Box Video

Please click below for a short video about Classic Technologies and about the aftermarket fuse box it offers.

Classic Technologies Fuse Box Schematic:

Click the schematic thumbnail to view PDF of the Classic Technologies schematic Fuse Box integrated into a vehicle.

Classic Technologies Fuse Box Dimensions:

Click here to view the dimensions of the Classic Technologies Fuse Box.

'Fuse Box Installation Video'

Please click below for a video of the Classic Technologies Fuse Box being installed in a 1959 Austin Healey 100-6.

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If you have an oil leak in the front of your tr6, GT6, TR250, Spitfire engine or MG Midget with the Triumph 1500cc engine, it may be due to stripped threads in the sealing block/saddle bar or it could be warped. See the re-engineered sealing block made from high-strength steel in the picture below. This part enables you to torque the bolts to the proper setting with plenty of margin if you overdo it.

If you’re going to be doing any lower-end work, we highly recommend you upgrade to this steel replacement part. .

To learn more, google "TR6 Sealing block" and view the write-ups and comments on this part. Read what others have written and see the galleries of images documenting its installation.

Be aware, unfortunately, someone has pirated the Classic Technologies sealing block. The pirated version is missing some key, subtle, design features and is not made with the tight tolerances that the Classic Technologies sealing block is made to. This individual is trying to beat me in price. Even though I have a better quality product, I have lowered the price of my sealing block by 20% in hopes of not losing sales to this individual and calling it a fall special.

sealing block image

 

The original TR6 sealing block has several serious design issues. The material that it is made from is soft, which is not an ideal choice for a part with threads. Making matters worse, the two holes that intersect the counter-bored holes require shorter bolts and have inadequate thread engagement (length of the bolt in contact with threads). The rule of thumb for this is about 1.5 times the diameter of the bolt. For softer materials, it should be 2 to 3 times the diameter of the bolt. The bolts for the sealing block are 5/16-24, so for the original sealing block, the minimum thread engagement should be close to 15/16” (3 diameters). The two bolts that intersect the counter-bored holes only have a thread engagement of 3/8”, just over 1 diameter. This is why these holes are so prone to stripping (see the right hole in the picture below).

The manual has a lower torque setting for these bolts because of this; but these bolts are on the bottom edge where the seal needs to be the best. Additionally, to have a good seal, the bolt torque around the gasket should be uniform.

 

Here you can see the part installed. With 200+ sold to TR6 owners, Spitfire owners and GT6 owners, there has not been one dissatisfied customer or complaint that this part did not fit perfectly. If you're planning an engine rebuild or are tired of your oil leak, here is an integral part of the solution.

The engine does not need to be pulled out of the car to replace it. You may be able to just drop the oil pan and then carefully separate the front plate gasket from the sealing block, but for best results, the timing cover and front plate gaskets should be replaced as well.

Maybe you know ahead of time that the threads in your sealing block are bad. In this case, the decision whether to upgrade or not shouldn't be too difficult. If you don't know, you won't find out until you are doing all your final torquing (timing is set, RTV is on all the gaskets and engine assembly is 90+% complete.). If one of those threads strip, you either live with the bad oil leak, or take a good part of the engine apart again, clean all of the gasket faces again, order new gaskets and then order this steel replacement, getting delayed significantly. You could develop a leak sometime in the future, and would like to tighten the bolts a little more; chances are you will strip these threads with the old sealing block, but not if you had the steel replacement. If you do strip a thread, then it is just that much more work to fix it. If you have the steel replacement, you will never have to worry about this part again.

To do the installation, you will need:

1. Oil pan gasket
2. Saddle bar/sealing block gasket set (comes with the gaskets for the bottom of the sealing block and wooden wedges for the ends). We don't recommend the rubber replacements for the wooden wedges because they are too thick. The wooden wedges from the catalogs lately are very poorly made. Therefore, we are now supplying sealing blocks with properly sized wooden wedges.
3. Gasket sealer that you can find at any auto parts store.

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